Bắc hành tạp lục

Hôm nay đọc giới thiệu về Bắc hành tạp lục của Nguyễn Du thì thấy hành trình đi sứ TQ hồi xưa nên bỗng dưng mình nghĩ có dịp đi theo lộ trình đó cũng hay á.
Đường đi của sứ bộ Nguyễn Du (1813-1814):
Nguyễn Du đi qua cửa Nam Quan ngày mồng 6 tháng 4 năm Quí Dậu (1813), đến Yên Kinh ngày 4 tháng 10 năm Quí Dậu (1813) và về qua Nam Quan ngày 29 tháng 3 năm Giáp Tuất (1814).
06-04 Quý Dậu: đi qua cửa Nam Quan (1813).
08-04 Quý Dậu: đến Ninh Minh Châu.
02-05 Quý Dậu: đến thành phủ Ngô Châu.
18-07 Quý Dậu: đến Trường Sa, tỉnh lỵ Hồ Nam.
30-07 Quý Dậu: đến Võ Xương, tỉnh lỵ Hồ Bắc.
09-08 Quý Dậu: từ Hán Khẩu ra đi.
22-08 Quý Dậu: ra khỏi địa phận huyện An Dương, tỉnh Hà Nam.
04-10 Quý Dậu: đến Yên Kinh (1813).
24-10 Quý Dậu: từ Yên Kinh khởi hành về nước (1813).
02-11 Quý Dậu: qua tỉnh An Huy xuống Hồ Bắc.
25-12 Quý Dậu: đến huyện Lâm Tương, tỉnh Hồ Nam.
30-01 Giáp Tuất: đến huyện Kỳ Dương, tỉnh Hồ Nam.
04-02 Giáp Tuất: đến Quế Lâm, tỉnh Quảng Tây.
29-03 Giáp Tuất: về qua Nam Quan (1814).

Thần Nông Giá

Nửa đêm lên giường bỗng dưng nghĩ đến địa điểm tiếp theo ở Trung Quốc mà mình sẽ đi tự túc là Thần Nông Giá (thuộc tỉnh Hồ Bắc). Tên vừa hay ho, mà rừng cây thuốc quý này nọ cũng là lạ.
Vừa check thử Thần Nông thì ra cũng xem như là thủy tổ người Việt. Vậy chuyến đi sẽ càng thêm ý nghĩa ha.

Ngawa Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Day 8: Langmusi

Langmusi was very dusty even in the early morning. I saw janitors in their full workwear with masks and long gloves. I could only see their eyes.

I started for what I thought the Sichuan side of the town, but couldn’t find the Hui mosque. Then I bought the entrance ticket for Sertri Gompa aka Dacanglangmu Saichisi.

Luckily, because I didn’t know the direction well enough, I guessed I should do what others do. Turned out I was at the northern side (Gansu side). I sought for the sky burial site after I left my companions because they either went the other way or were slow. I saw people walking to the hill side, so I followed them. After a while, I stopped near a school and some Chinese women spoke to me. I could barely answer them, but they thought I spoke Chinese so well. However, I barely understood what they said because they used some local dialect. From their outfits, I thought they must have come from a countryside.

Surprisingly, I met the best English speaking person of China on the hill here where she happily told me I needed to walk up the way she went down to reach the Tibetan sky burial site. She also added that there were big birds and almost no people at the site now. Then I continued and saw only yaks.

I was surprised again when I saw cars at the burial site. Seemed like they came from a different road and didn’t see the monastery. I walked around the site for a while, took some photos and videos.

At the farthest point of the journey above 3,500m was a plot of land surrounded by Tibetan flags where I saw many huge axes on the ground and vultures waiting on the mountainside. I also saw many fragments of human bones and even a bloody tooth nearby. I wasn’t scared but I didn’t wanna see straight into the bloody stuff. I wasn’t scared of this place, just thought that it was so sacred.

After getting down the hill, my team joined me and we went to a crowded restaurant for lunch. The wonton soup was good, but I still preferred the dry wonton in Zoigê.

After taking a nap in the hotel, we went to the monastery nearby. I thought this Kirti Gompa aka Dacangnama Ge’erdisi (on the southern/Sichuan side) was more beautiful, but it was just one big temple. People outside it looked more like camping to me because they were like just sitting there or finding a good spot to take some pictures. I walked towards to canyon, and my temple visit suddenly turned into a trek. Maybe I lacked info of the Namo Gorge before I actually did it.

Wading through the stream, some horse keepers talked to me. They tried to get me on a horse trekking but I told them I was afraid of horses. (Actually I didn’t like riding animals). He told me the valley would lead to the meadow. Two companions found me while I was slowing down so I decided to continue. The meadow was a little disappointed because the scene was not very beautiful at this time of the year.

When I returned I met a Canadian guy whose face was redder than the Tibetans and a short-haired British girl who looked like a nun. He said my hat was from Canada, but I told him it was more Russian. He told me that he went to Vietnam, and actually the two of them were hitchhiking together after meeting in Hanoi. Lucy said the luggage was too heavy. Watching her carrying her backpack made me feel tired too.

I tried yak yogurt because a companion told me it tasted like Greek yogurt. But I smelled the cow in the first tasting piece instead. Nothing delicious about it.

Before dinner, I bought a panda faced craft item as a gift for my friend. After another fried rice meal, I decided to buy Tibetan beef jerky for my sis. I really liked the packaging. Then I called it a day after 20,000+ steps.